Bothy adventures: What they are and where to find them

Originally published in Intrepid magazine online for subscribers and in print in September 2019.

Disclaimer: Please refer to the Mountain Bothies Association website for advice on visiting Bothies safely whilst covid-19 is a risk. Always take alternative sleeping arrangements (a bivvy bag or a tent, or a Plan B of nearby accommodation) and consider a Plan B.

If you want the wild feel of camping but don’t want to sleep on the ground, battling wind and rain overnight, you’ll want some walls and a door. A bothy can provide that.

What is a Bothy?

But what’s one of them? A bothy is a building, usually in the middle of a beautiful glen or near a loch, or river, or tucked away in a forest. It might look abandoned, but it is definitely loved. The structure is likely to have been part of a working farm or estate, perhaps used as a feeding house for livestock, or it was once a home to family living away from more densely populated areas in simpler times. It almost certainly won’t have electricity or running water, and you’d be very lucky to find a toilet of some sort.

Each bothy varies in size and style. The most standard features are sleeping platforms and a fireplace. All of them will have a plaque on the door with the Mountain Bothy Association logo and the name of the building (good luck pronouncing that!). You might find a few rooms, perhaps even an attic, and you’re likely to find a Log Book, signed by everyone who has used its shelter, and some notes on the history of the building. And a spade. I’ll come to that later.

Who makes this possible?

These buildings are all maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association (MBA), whilst still being under ownership of the estate in which you find it (with the exception of two in Scotland which are owned by the MBA solely). Maintenance work is carried out by volunteers, and help is always welcomed. You don’t need any trade skills to lend a hand, though it does help if you can make a good cup of tea without the aid of a kitchen. To continue the fair use of these valuable shelters, it is imperative to follow the Bothy Code. The full Bothy Code is on display in every one of the buildings. It isn’t complicated: it doesn’t ask for anything other than respect.

The Bothy Code

Respect other users: Leave the bothy clean and tidy with dry kindling for the next visitors. Make other visitors welcome and be considerate to other users.

Respect the bothy: Tell the MBA about accidental damage. Don’t leave litter or perishable food. Leave the bothy as you would like to find it.

Respect the surroundings: Bury human waste more than 100m from the building. Don’t cut live wood. Use fuel sparingly.

Respect the agreement with the estate: Observe any restrictions on use of the bothy, for example during stag stalking or at lambing time. Bothies are only for short stays.

Respect the restriction on numbers: Large groups (6 or more) should not use a bothy, due to the lack of facilities and risk of overcrowding.

Because these shelters are open to all who can find them, you may find, by the time you arrive, that other people have already made themselves comfortable. This shouldn’t deter you from having a look around or even staying the night. Whilst bothies are used entirely at your own risk, the people who use their benefits are always welcoming and, in some cases, willing to share a dram of whisky and an entertaining story or two. I’ve had some very interesting conversations with fellow adventurers.

Though the remoteness of bothies means it’s unlikely the building will ever be full, some nights are busier than others and you might find yourself with no floor space. The popularity of bothies is rising, so when the weather is good the more accessible ones are likely to be occupied before sunset. Carrying a tent or bivvy bag and being prepared to camp outside might be an option if you prefer some privacy.

Where can I find a Bothy?

But how do I find these mystical buildings, I hear you ask. There are quite a few in Scotland, there’s a handful in the North of England, and nine in Wales. The easiest thing to do is to buy The Bothy Bible, by Geoff Allan. Geoff’s book describes the easiest approach route, giving details of where to park or how to access the route by public transport, and gives other helpful notes. For fairness, I should mention that Phoebe Smith also published a helpful book, The Book of the Bothy, well before Geoff’s came out. I love the simplicity of The Bothy Bible, though, so it’s definitely my go-to for bothy adventure planning. The MBA website also has a list of recognised bothies and their grid coordinates, for map-reading pros (or, the savvy navvies… it’ll never catch on). There aren’t any descriptions of routes, however, so you’d have to get your adventure planning hat on and peruse maps for your chosen quest. Maybe that would make it more fun?

There’s at least one bothy whose location is a heavily guarded secret. The Secret Howff is a mystery, more-than-rustic shelter hidden somewhere in Scotland. If you Google hard enough, you can find enough clues to know where to look, but that absolutely takes away all the fun, in my opinion. Most people plan to visit bothies, but I’ve certainly read Bothy Book entries from people who have chanced upon the building at exactly the time they needed it: when the weather’s changed, in the middle of a map crisis or just generally on a bad day.

Speaking of the Bothy Book, I do believe it is worth mentioning that part of Bothy Etiquette is to leave an entry in the Bothy Book even if you don’t plan on staying the night. What you write is up to you. It can be a short “We were here” note with the date, or it can be a full retelling of how you came to visit and what happened whilst you were there, or anything in between. The Book is there not just to provide entertainment, but is a record of the popularity of the bothy and an indicator to the caretakers of what work might need to be done in the upkeep. One of my favourite things to do is to settle in with a cosy cup of tea and read the Bothy Book from cover to cover.

I’ve only ever read one entry that made my brow furrow, and I’d like to take this platform to ask that no one follows this terrible example. I’ve already set up the context that bothies are places of comfort in beautiful scenery: they’re a happy place. The entry in question was from a visitor who noted that he had a lovely stay but “the girl crying next to the fireplace in the middle of the night freaked me out a bit”. Future bothies visitors: do not do this. Write wonderful things. Do not try and spook the next users. See Bothy Code point number one.

What do I need?

So, you’ve decided you want to visit a bothy, you’ve identified which one and a possible route… but what do you take with you?! That bit’s easy. If you’d take it wild camping, you should take it to a bothy. And if you’ve never been wild camping, there are plenty of resources online that list suggested kit. All bothies require at least a short walk in, if not a bit of a trek, so be aware that you’ll have to carry all your kit there and back again. Essential items could be: a sleeping bag (and mat), food and water, a head torch (with spare batteries, or a spare charged torch if it’s a USB one), a map and a compass. I also pack: a pillar candle, lighter and a book (reading by candlelight is my ultimate happy place), a burner, tea bags, hot chocolate and my trusty mug with some milk in a travel-size toiletries bottle, a pen and a rubbish bag. A tent, as a backup in the event of a full house, is an optional risk you’ll have to decide yourself.

Giving back

Another Intrepid author wrote a poignant blog post about outdoor exploration not being free. It’s worth a read. And in the same vein, if you use the comfort and shelter of a bothy a few times, and you’re in a position to do so, I would encourage giving something back to the Mountain Bothies Association. By choice, I pay for membership. It’s only £25 (£15 for concessions) a year and supports the work that the volunteers do to maintain the quality of bothies, and the availability to those who explore to find them. There’s also a quarterly newsletter that is emailed to me, so I can keep up to date with any changes out there and be aware of times when some buildings may be out of use due to repairs or other circumstance.

And if giving money isn’t your thing, then there’s always your time. As I mentioned, you don’t need any trade skills to offer a helping hand on work party weekends. Any help offered would be gratefully received.

And if time is also a premium, simply following the Bothy Code and taking home any litter you bring or find would mean that these shelters can continue to be used for years to come.

Alternative adventures

For those who need something a little softer than a camping mat, there are alternative adventure shelters. Mountain Huts are available to book really cheaply if you’re a member of either the BMC (British Mountaineering Council) or the SMC (Scottish Mountaineering Council). They could be described as ‘posh bothies’, because they have electricity, minimal mattresses and, sometimes, a fully kitted out kitchen. Youth Hostels are also a good, inexpensive and minimal option, with many being available to book for sole use, if you’ve got many adventurous friends. Both of these alternatives are commonly found in beautiful locations with a plethora of activities to be explored.

Final thoughts

Whatever you decide to do, whether it’s poking your head in a Bothy to see what’s treasures lie inside, or finding a really remote one and making it a two-day adventure, it’ll be awesome.